6 Gully (IV), one of the best mid-grade ice climbs in Scotland. Stob Coire Sgreamhach is really part of the Bidean nam Bian massif but become a Munro in its own right in 1997. Stob Coire offers something for everyone, from easy gullies and turfy ribs, to classic snowed up rock and desperate test-pieces. All good in the Lochan on December 15, 2014. Shouldering burdens, you begin the pilgrimage down into the murk. Kenny Spence, Murray Hamilton and Alan Taylor led the way with their 1980 ascent of the still reckoned Tilt. Right of Broad Gully lies one of Scotland's most popular (and populated) winter routes - the broken rib of Dorsal Arete (II), easily identified by it's near permanent occupation. i like the photos. Mark Davidson climbed on June 30th, 2015 [with] Alone [weather] Cloud base at 945m on the way up so Stob Coire nan Lochan (Bidean nam Bian) … We'... d chosen an exploratory look at Ordinary Route (IV,5) on Stob Coire nan Lochan's Summit Buttress. Its surrounding area is familiar to most of us, since the filming of ''Harry Potter and The Prisoner of Askaban'' and ''Skyfall'' have taken place there. However, on closer acquaintance it is somewhat more broken than the neighbouring cliffs, though provides a good selection of long low-mid grade gullies and ribs. A further long ridge runs W turning NW to Stob Coire nam Beithe and on to An t-Sron to enclose Coire nam Beith. Highest point; Elevation: 901 m (2,956 ft) Prominence: c. 636 m Parent peak: Beinn Ime 42 x 52.5 cm (framed) £450.00. Your right about Broad Gully – though it looked like quite a few folk had been up it recently and we even spotted someone starting up it around 2pm, mmmm. There are a couple of exposed Grade 1 (bordering on Grade 2) rock-scrambling pitches on the Zig-Zags part of this route where some people may find the use of a rope reassuring. A long approach guards the various crags that sit under the summit, with the best probably the impressive'' Church Door buttress, home to the classic speleological excursions of Crypt Route (V) and West Chimney (V). The NNW ridge connects to a An Garbhanach (975m), the SE ridge to Na Gruagaichean (1055) and the SW ridge to Am Bodach (1032m). UKH 2019 Readership Survey. Round the ridges which was great and nice to be walking on scoured ridges. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. Stob coire nam Beith. Inevitably, the first major winter foray onto the shorter and steeper cliffs of Stob Coire nan Lochan involved Harold Raeburn, who in 1907 along with the Inglis Clarks (to whose son the CIC hut was erected in memory) climbed the elegant and ever popular line of Central Buttress Ordinary Route . The path into Coire nan Lochan facilitates an ascent of the grassy NW slopes of Gearr Aonach leading to the rocky E slopes of Stop Coire nan Lochan. By the time we had reached the top of Stob Coire nan Lochan the cloud had covered us. The ultra distance... UKClimbing is a vibrant web site with rich content and an amazing community. Along the south west ridge to Bidean nam Bian and then south-east to Stob Coire Sgreamhach. Enquire. The open nature of the crag means that sunny late-season days can quickly strip the walls of snow, though some of the mixed routes - e.g. Fresh snow on Sunday and yesterday added to what was already a very good cover of snow. Stob Coire nan Lochan is a child summit of Bidean nam Bian. “We went to Stob Coire nan Lochan on Tuesday [March 12] to make the most of the excellent conditions in Glen Coe,” Simon Yearsley reports. Hi Craig/Alan. Growing up in London, Viv moved to Scotland for university seven years ago where he continues his apprenticeship in the bizarre world of Scottish winter climbing with many repeats and the odd new route. Car is the easiest method of access, but Glen Coe is also served by the Glasgow to Fort William coach service who if asked nicely have been known to drop climbers off in the glen itself rather than the village. Stob Coire nan Lochan - GlencoeWith a big dump of snow and freezing conditions, we headed for Stob Coire na Lochan to find some adventure. Andy Moles - 30/Jan/10: There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. “We were delighted to climb a new line on South Buttress. Bidean nam Bian, lying to the south of Glen Coe, Highland, Scotland, is the highest point in the former county of Argyll.It is a complex mountain, with many ridges and subsidiary peaks, one of which, Stob Coire Sgreamhach, is classified as a separate Munro.. The ridge itself (II) gives a technically relatively strait-forward, but superbly committing and exposed winter challenge, while it's steep flanks rising above the glen are home to among others the classic Blue Riband (V), one of Scotland's most unique and entertaining ice climbs. New Ben Nevis Winter Line by Dave... On Friday 13th March, mountain runner John Fleetwood completed a rare winter round of the Glen Coe skyline. As a last resort to fulfilling the need to play with spiky toys when the Atlantic weather has rendered the hills bare and soggy, the Ice Factor in the old aluminium smelt in Kinlochleven provides zero walk-in ice and plastic climbing and a cafe for spectating. Neil Adams. To their left, the more mellow, though equally good and justifiably very popular curving ridge-line of Ordinary Route (IV) gives an excellent introduction to Stob Coire mixed climbing. So far, all we've asked of you is that you visit and interact with the site but we are in uncertain times. Now one of the most accessible and popular winter destinations, Stob Coire (and indeed the rest of Glen Coe) were relatively inaccessible to the early pioneers. Access to a year's subscription to Rockfax Digital. This can be in a small way or in a larger package that includes discounted products from our sister-publishing company Rockfax. Raeburn's Route, Stob Coire nan Lochan February 12, 2019 / 0 Comments / in News, Scotland, Winter / by Ken Applegate. Broad Gully and Fingals on the lost side stob coire nan lochan. The triangular summit of Stob Coire a' Chairn is located at the intersection of three narrow ridges, each with paths on their crests. The summit of Stob Coire Creach (Binnein an … Enjoy Mountaineering in Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glencoe, Highlands and Islands, United Kingdom. There's more snow to come this week too. Other Notes: . This fine summit is situated where the Beinn Fhada ridge joins the main ridge across the back of Bidean. Another confusion: Raeburn's Route and Ordinary Route (Central Buttress) are the same route. Lastly, separated by the straightforward NC Gully (I/II), the shorter north buttress holds a selection of excellent steep mixed climbs including the fine exposed arete taken by the infamous 'introduction to snowed up rock climbing' - the excellent, and fortunately excellently protected Crest Route (V). Despite his focus on wintry things, he probably most enjoys a cold beer after a days cragging in the sun. It was a beautiful morning and my first real company for 8 days. Probably mainland Scotland's most famous mountain ridge, the jagged Aonach Eagach forms the mighty northern wall of Glen Coe. You can show your support in one of two ways; both come with rewards, and one includes discounted products from Rockfax. cool article. Sitting high above the glen, framing the steep valley below, the 'affectionately' dubbed by some Stob Coire nan 'walk-in' is one of Scotland's finest winter crags, a cathedral of steep walls, grooves, ridges and gullies jutting bluntly into the sky. Stob Coire nan Lochan, Glenoe Alpine conditions on Stob Coire nan Lochan Kevin belaying on Dorsal … Welcome to the winter queen of Glen Coe - Stob Coire nan Lochan. Much higher up there is a waterfall in a small 'box canyon' and the path climbs rougher scree up to the left to exit from the Coire before scrambling up the east ridge of Stob Coire nan Lochan. Overview. In addition to the comprehensive SMC Glen Coe guide, Stob Coire, and the other main Glen Coe cliffs, are well covered in the SMC Scottish Winter Climbs, and the Cicerone Winter Climbs Ben Nevis and Glen Coe. For Coire Gabhail, once beyond the boulders that guard the entrance to the glen, you should stick to path on the right hand side of the gorge, and make a rising traverse towards the col between the summit of Bidean nam Bian and Stob Coire nan Lochan. There seems to be a bit of confusion on ukclimbing.com between Stob Coire nan Lochan (Glencoe) and Coire an Lochain (N. Cairngorms)in the links from photos in the Gallery section. Stob Coire nan Lochan is a summit in the region or range in Scotland. Please select one climbing type above before filtering on grade. SCnL still holding onto some snow. About the artist: Painting 'en plein air', Lochaber based artist David Unsworth works with oil paints on linen canvases. Viewed from the coire floor, Summit buttress on the left presents a steep flank above Broad Gully cut by the slanting groove lines of the popular Scabbard Chimney (V) and slightly trickier Spectre (V). In terms of gear, the mixed climbs vary from superbly protected (cams are useful including biggish sizes for parallel cracks on the harder routes) to frighteningly blank and blind - with thin pegs and/or bulldogs sometimes very helpful - in short, a big varied rack is worth carrying. About Stob Coire Nan Lochan: A venune best in the depths of the winter months. Since 2010 UKC/UKH have carried out a readership survey every three years and it is now time for a new one. The route felt in tricky condition and I felt out of climbing shape but we were doing OK and enjoying the ride. Aiming southwards from the summit of Stob Coire nan Lochan, an obvious path is followed. With a low and long enough freeze, the recently developed icefall venue of Eilde Canyon looks well worth a visit or three. Via Coire nan Lochan on a beautiful early morning. We were up on Stob Coire nan Lochan today too. The south side of Glen Coe is made up of one massif, crowned by the peak of Bidean nam Bian. Walks up Stob Coire nan Lochan However, on closer acquaintance it is somewhat more broken than the neighbouring cliffs, … A fair amount of loose rock and windslab avalanches on the lower slopes can be hazardous. While Stob Coire is the major attraction, Glen Coe has a wealth of other winter venues on offer, with everything from classic ice gullies and winter ridges to desperate mixed test-pieces and steep ice smears to be found. After a good half hour and an impressive narrow ridge walked, Stob Coire nan Lochan summit is finally reached with great views of Loch Leven far below. reminds me how i suffered in my one season there, but how i miss it. It's worth noting that Church Door buttress has the highest cliff base in Glen Coe, some 150m higher than that of Stob Coire nan Lochan, so in marginal conditions it can often be a better bet. For the gullies, a few screws and a small rock rack should suffice. The site will continue to be mainly funded by a subtle level of outdoor-only advertising but we now need extra support to ensure we can continue to provide the UKC that we all know and love. The top can be identified by the cairn. Stob Coire a' Chairn in the heart of the Mamores is part of the Ring of Steall. Show your support UKC Supporter badge on your profile and forum posts. Instructor/Guides The summit affords a fine view of Bidean nam Bian's northern cliffs. Name: Stob Coire nam Beith, Highland Place type: Hill Or Mountain Location: Grid Ref: NN 1389 5459 • X/Y co-ords: 213896, 754596 • Lat/Long: 56.64609909,-5.03689944 To help improve UKC/UKH we need to know all about you: what activities you do, what sort of gear you buy and what you think about us. A Windy Stob Coire Nan Lochan Posted by Max Hunter on 21st January, 2014 Working for Jagged Globe – Winter Summits Course I was out with Olga and Roisin with Dave observing (working) again today – with a poor forecast of strong southerly winds, and very poor visibility. Beinn Fhada is tricky terrain - particularly in descent - and the Lost Valley is the route usually used, involving a steep and eroded climb up scree. Due to its compact size and popularity, Stob Coire can often be swamped with climbers, with multiple teams queuing on the most popular routes. As in the rest of Scotland, the limited early development focussed on major ridgelines and gullies with Buachaille Etive Mor attracting the most attention. Please help UKClimbing continue to provide varied and free content by becoming an official UKC Supporter. The relative ease at which each footstep is taken on the well graded track leading from the car park and view point in Glen Coe to the head of Coire nan Lochan is slight compensation for the effort required by the legs and lungs in making the steep ascent to the cluster of small lochans that lie at about the 750m height, directly below the impressive crags of Stob Coire nan Lochan. Lying on the western flank of Bidean, Stob Coire nam Beith presents an impressive bulk over the valley below. Cross the footbridge over the River Coe and plod up the path to the foot of the crags. Probably Scotland's most iconic (and photographed) mountain, due to aspect and altitude, Buchaille Etive Mor is a less reliable winter venue than Stob Coire nan Lochan or Bidean. All the walking routes up Stob Coire nan Lochan on Mud and Routes can be found below. Scabbard Chimney (V) , Chimney Route (VI) and East Face Route Direct (VII) can ice up and survive a bit better. Fellow go4awalkers who have already walked, climbed, summited & bagged Stob Coire nan Lochan (Bidean nam Bian) Andrew Edwards walked up on September 18th, 2015 [from/via/route] Loch achtriochtan [with] Myself [weather] Sunny - Great day. Further afield, Viv has made regular visits to the Alps and has been on a couple of trips to the Alaska Range, climbing the classic North Buttress of Mount Hunter with Tony Stone and Steve Fortune in May 2009. Accommodation-wise, as befits a major (in mountain terms) tourist destination, there are plenty of options to suit all budgets. Advertise here. Its height makes it one of the most reliable winter climbing spots in Glencoe and it offers excellent routes of all grades. Defined by high steep ridges the Northeast corrie of Stob Coire nan Lochan is an idyllic spot with tall columnar cliffs an deeply cut gullies. It was then quickly onsighted by Dave MacLeod. Spence and Hamilton then turned their attention to the steep grooves splitting Central Buttress, succeeding on that route in 1981, with Spence (this time with Spider Mackenzie) finally succeeding on the direct summer line to produce one of Scotland's most famous mixed climbs - Central Grooves - in 1983. The cliffs are split into two main areas separated by the biggest gully - Broad Gully (I) which provides a quick descent if conditions allow. © Steve Gordon / theoccasionalphotojournalist.blogspot.com. Very little in condition on Stob Coire nan Lochan now, Boomerang Gully looked ok, Langsam might be climbable, Forked, Broad and North Gullies are all complete. 40 x 50 cm. Ascent : … We need to look at ways to keep the site moving forward whilst maintaining our key aim of allowing free access to everyone to our main content. Hills and mountain guide to Stob Coire nan Lochan (Hu,MT,Sim). You can help us by becoming a UKC Supporter. Stob Coire nan Lochan and the Bidean Massif at sunrise this morning. For us this route has a somewhat convoluted history, one reason for its name: Twisted. Ever since, Stob Coire has been a forcing ground for Scotland's best mixed climbers, from Colin Maclean and Andy Nisbet on the soaring corner of Unicorn (1985) to Dave Cuthbertson and Rab Anderson on The Duel (1999) to Neil Gresham, who in 2001 applied continental tactics to produce both a fierce climb, and ethical Tempest (M9), the first traditional ground-up ascent falling to strongman Andy Turner in 2010, at a lofty X,9 the hardest winter route in Glen Coe to date. Name: Stob Coire na Cloiche: Hill number: 850: Height: 912.5m / 2994ft: Parent (Ma): 805 Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan [Sgurr nan Ceathramhnan] Parent (SMC): 805 Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan [Sgurr nan … As the crag takes little drainage, the gullies rely on snow build-up to form so need a decent dump and a few freeze thaw cycles to come into condition. Beinn an Lochain, seen whilst on the ascent of Stob Coire Creagach. Upload a file of missing climbs, Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer Food and Drink Located on the old road between the Clachaig and the village is the Glen Coe youth hostel plus another bunkhouse and campsite. We lost a good bit of snow cover but you would not have thought so looking at Stob Coire nan Lochan yesterday. Perched high above the hanging Lost Valley, two buttresses host a small collection of relatively unfrequented mixed routes in the IV-VII range including the modern classic Neanderthal (VII). © UKClimbing Limited. Ropes-wise, most pitches are reasonably short, so 60m ropes aren't a necessity. 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